Winter Fashion

Winter in the Western District is cold and wet and the southerly winds are freezing.  Frosts are common and snow can fall in some parts, especially around the gold towns of Ararat and Ballarat where sub-zero temperatures are frequent.  Winter weather would have reminded the pioneers of home as they donned coats and hats and furs.  Way too many furs. There was something else we don’t face today in the same way.  Mud.

SNOW, NORTH BALLARAT (c1900-1906). Image Courtesy of the State Library of Victoria Image no: H41033/32 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/55951

SNOW, NORTH BALLARAT. Image Courtesy of the State Library of Victoria Image no: H41033/32 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/55951

Mud was everywhere in Bendigo in 1856.

HE BENDIGO ADVERTISER. (1856, May 28). Bendigo Advertiser (Vic. : 1855 - 1918), p. 2. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article88050303

HE BENDIGO ADVERTISER. (1856, May 28). Bendigo Advertiser (Vic. : 1855 – 1918), p. 2. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article88050303

The situation was no different in Portland.

DOMESTIC INTELLIGENCE. (1856, September 19). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 - 1876), p. 2 Edition: EVENING.. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64566835

DOMESTIC INTELLIGENCE. (1856, September 19). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 – 1876), p. 2 Edition: EVENING.. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64566835

Winter fashions across the 100 or so years from the 1840s went from heavy velvet dresses to woollen slacks in the 1950s.  Furs of all varieties were popular especially during the 19th century and early 20th century. Thankfully, the wearing of fur is now frowned upon because at the rate it was being worn, all fur-bearing animals would now be extinct.

Early Port Phillip settlers of 1845 had word from London that velvet was the must-have fabric for the coming season.  Tunic dresses and double skirts were fashionable.

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FASHIONS FOR JULY IN PORT PHILLIP, OR JANUARY IN ENGLAND. (1845, June 11). Geelong Advertiser and Squatters' Advocate (Vic. : 1845 - 1847), p. 5. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91122789

FASHIONS FOR JULY IN PORT PHILLIP, OR JANUARY IN ENGLAND. (1845, June 11). Geelong Advertiser and Squatters’ Advocate (Vic. : 1845 – 1847), p. 5. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91122789

Velvet was still in fashion by the end of the 1840s but not at all practical if walking the muddy streets.

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FASHIONS FOR JANUARY. (1849, May 12). Geelong Advertiser (Vic. : 1847 - 1851), p. 1 Edition: MORNING. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article93133862

FASHIONS FOR JANUARY. (1849, May 12). Geelong Advertiser (Vic. : 1847 – 1851), p. 1 Edition: MORNING. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article93133862

There was a move away from black and other dark colours in 1851, with materials in sky blue and taffeta in apricot.

SCHEDULE REFERRED TO IN THE ABOVE LETTERS. (1851, May 2). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 4. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article4777642

SCHEDULE REFERRED TO IN THE ABOVE LETTERS. (1851, May 2). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1957), p. 4. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article4777642

“Brights” of Geelong received their first shipment of Winter goods for 1851 in May.  A case of goods including cuffs, collars and sleeves and a range of fur accessories were on offer including sable, mink and squirrel goods.

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Advertising. (1851, May 20). Geelong Advertiser (Vic. : 1847 - 1851), p. 3 Edition: DAILY and MORNING. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91914023

Advertising. (1851, May 20). Geelong Advertiser (Vic. : 1847 – 1851), p. 3 Edition: DAILY and MORNING. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91914023

“Brown Brothers” of Geelong offered ladies and children’s boas and cuffs in mink and chinchilla.

Advertising. (1855, May 24). Geelong Advertiser and Intelligencer (Vic. : 1851 - 1856), p. 4 Edition: DAILY.. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91871285

Advertising. (1855, May 24). Geelong Advertiser and Intelligencer (Vic. : 1851 – 1856), p. 4 Edition: DAILY.. Retrieved May 22, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91871285

Dresses were trimmed with bows, lace, netting and velvet ornaments in the 1860s along with buttons and epaulettes.  The broad borders at the bottom of a dress could be ornamented with trimmings.  An advantage of the border was that it was easy to freshen up with new materials or trims if it became tatty or mud-stained.

FASHIONS FOR JANUARY. (1860, March 19). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 6. Retrieved June 1, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article5679112

FASHIONS FOR JANUARY. (1860, March 19). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1957), p. 6. Retrieved June 1, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article5679112

Large earrings were in vogue during winter, 1866.  Large gold hoops and pear-shaped earrings were available.

THE FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER. (1866, February 1). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 - 1876), p. 4 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64635701

THE FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER. (1866, February 1). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 – 1876), p. 4 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64635701

During the same season, felt bonnets were popular.

FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER. (1866, March 5). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 - 1876), p. 3 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64635944

FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER. (1866, March 5). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 – 1876), p. 3 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64635944

[No heading]. (1873, May 17). The Australasian Sketcher with Pen and Pencil (Melbourne, Vic. : 1873 - 1889), p. 29. Retrieved June 1, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-page5985335

[No heading]. (1873, May 17). The Australasian Sketcher with Pen and Pencil (Melbourne, Vic. : 1873 – 1889), p. 29. Retrieved June 1, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-page5985335

“A. Paton” of Camperdown offered dresses in a range of materials for winter, 1879.

Advertising. (1879, July 25). Camperdown Chronicle (Vic. : 1877 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article29098359

Advertising. (1879, July 25). Camperdown Chronicle (Vic. : 1877 – 1954), p. 3. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article29098359

Patons also sold Dent’s Kid Gloves.  Yes, Dents were going back in the 1870s.  A check of the company website found that Dents gloves were already 100 years old at that time.

Advertising. (1879, July 25). Camperdown Chronicle (Vic. : 1877 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article29098359

Advertising. (1879, July 25). Camperdown Chronicle (Vic. : 1877 – 1954), p. 3. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article29098359

In 1882, dresses in silk were made with jacket bodices.  Bonnets were in the “princess shape” and Newmarket coats were often trimmed with fur.

THE AUSTRALIAN WOMAN'S MAGAZINE. (1882, May 5). Record (Emerald Hill, Vic : 1881 - 1900), p. 3. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article108472760

THE AUSTRALIAN WOMAN’S MAGAZINE. (1882, May 5). Record (Emerald Hill, Vic : 1881 – 1900), p. 3. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article108472760

“Heazelwoods” of Percy Street, Portland advertised their new winter stock for 1883.  Hats were available in Beaver, felt and straw.

Advertising. (1883, July 19). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), p. 3 Edition: MORNING. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71585826

Advertising. (1883, July 19). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 – 1953), p. 3 Edition: MORNING. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71585826

Sealskin was the most popular fur for winter 1894. Silver fox, red fox and blue fox were also used for wraps.  Black furs of lynx and fox were also popular.

The Popular Winter Furs. (1894, October 5). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 1. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72947027

The Popular Winter Furs. (1894, October 5). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 1. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72947027

The trimming of winter hats with flowers was thought unusual until 1895. Then there were many colours to choose from instead of the usual black, brown and grey.  There was a doctor’s warning with this article – low-cut dresses must not be worn in winter.

WORLD OF FASHION. (1895, June 21). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), p. 2 Edition: EVENING, Supplement: Supplement to the Portland Guardian.. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article65400699

WORLD OF FASHION. (1895, June 21). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 – 1953), p. 2 Edition: EVENING, Supplement: Supplement to the Portland Guardian.. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article65400699

What a display of fur.

C1890-1918 Image Courtesy of the State Library of Victoria, Image No. H2002.42/23 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/40114

C1890-1918 Image Courtesy of the State Library of Victoria, Image No. H2002.42/23 http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/40114

Women were told to forget furs of the “cat o’-nine-tail’ variety with “glassy eyes, sharp cardboard noses, and wire claws”.  They were no longer “good form”.  That sounded promising for the animals.  No, it wasn’t.  The furs of 1902 were on a “large scale”

WOMAN'S REALM. (1902, November 15). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 5. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article9076147

WOMAN’S REALM. (1902, November 15). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1957), p. 5. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article9076147

This is an over-blouse an “important” garment from Winter 1908.  It could be made from a Butterick pattern.

LADIES' BLOUSE. (1908, April 17). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 7. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72808710

LADIES’ BLOUSE. (1908, April 17). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 7. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72808710

Dimmeys were promoting tailored suits in 1914.  Materials included Donegal Tweeds and velour.

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Advertising. (1914, April 1). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 3. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74224396

Advertising. (1914, April 1). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 3. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74224396

The young lady from around 1914 wears a fox stole and muffler.  How women ever wore fox furs with the heads with glass eyes, I don’t know.  The closest I’ve come to them has been in antique shops, but after reading the children’s book Grandad’s Gifts by Paul Jennings, I hope I never see another.  If you have read the book, you will know what I mean.

c1914. Image Courtesy of the State Library of South Australia. Image No. PRG280/1/11/516 http://images.slsa.sa.gov.au/searcy/11/PRG280_1_11_516.htm

c1914. Image Courtesy of the State Library of South Australia. Image No. PRG280/1/11/516 http://images.slsa.sa.gov.au/searcy/11/PRG280_1_11_516.htm

“Langlands” of Horsham were offering more than just “average” garments for winter 1919.

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Advertising. (1919, April 25). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 1. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73048126

Advertising. (1919, April 25). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 1. Retrieved May 30, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73048126

In March 1922. the summer goods were cleared from the windows of fashions houses and exchanged with the latest winter fashions.  A coat of velour with fur trimming was expensive, but the velour made the coat as “warm as a blanket”.  Mole coney was popular.  It sounded exotic but it was only wild rabbit dyed in mole colours.

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FASHION FOR THE WEEK. (1922, March 15). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 4. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article4685428

FASHION FOR THE WEEK. (1922, March 15). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1957), p. 4. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article4685428

Some typical 1920s fashion.

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WINTER FASHIONS. (1925, July 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 4. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article2132544

WINTER FASHIONS. (1925, July 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1957), p. 4. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article2132544

Ostrich feathers were the prediction for winter 1927.  Gone were the days of black or white, all the colours of the rainbow would be available.  Be warned, they only suited the tall and slim.

OSTRICH FEATHER BOAS. (1926, October 26). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 6. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73016017

OSTRICH FEATHER BOAS. (1926, October 26). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 6. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73016017

A range of hats, dresses and coats for winter 1929.

FASHION SHOWS. (1929, February 22). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 13. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3996179

FASHION SHOWS. (1929, February 22). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1957), p. 13. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3996179

FASHION SHOWS. (1929, March 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), p. 13. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3993217

FASHION SHOWS. (1929, March 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1957), p. 13. Retrieved June 2, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3993217

There were hats to suit all for winter, 1934.

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The Fashion Parade. (1934, April 21). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 16. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article51199094

The Fashion Parade. (1934, April 21). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 16. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article51199094

After completing four seasons of fashion, the women of Horsham were the standouts in the fashion stakes.  Maybe it was because of the range of clothing brought to the town by shops such as Madame Griffiths’ of Firebrace Street.

WINTER FASHIONS. (1934, May 1). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 4. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72582666

WINTER FASHIONS. (1934, May 1). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 4. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72582666

Winter 1935 through the eyes of Petrov.

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BUILD YOUR Winter Wardrobe Round YOUR TOPCOAT. (1935, May 4). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 8. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47469903

BUILD YOUR Winter Wardrobe Round YOUR TOPCOAT. (1935, May 4). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 8. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47469903

A rather curious type of cape was available for winter 1935.  Made from material akin to that of a “bathing cap”, they were popular because they were light and cheap.  Collars of all sorts were also available, including Peter Pan and those adorned with bows.

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Sundries for Winter Wear. (1935, June 6). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING.. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64289351

Sundries for Winter Wear. (1935, June 6). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 – 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING.. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64289351

Cadet Blue, Kenyan Red and Imperial Gold were just some of the wool colours for winter 1936, available in a variety of yarns.

FASHIONS FOR WINTER. (1936, March 9). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64271974

FASHIONS FOR WINTER. (1936, March 9). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 – 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article64271974

The Fashion Parade. (1937, March 6). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 6. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article51587259

The Fashion Parade. (1937, March 6). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 6. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article51587259

During WW2 money was tight and women were advised on how they could have a fresh winter wardrobe on a limited budget.  A coat was most important and clothes from the previous season could be revitalised to save money for a good quality coat.   Cheap materials creased easily and imagine the creases after three hours sitting at the pictures!

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VANITY CORNER. (1941, April 29). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 8. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72691381

VANITY CORNER. (1941, April 29). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 8. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72691381

Tweeds were fashionable for winter 1944.

Tweeds are fashion firsts this winter. (1944, May 27). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 19. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47218844

Tweeds are fashion firsts this winter. (1944, May 27). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 19. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47218844

And tartans for 1949.

Week-end in the country. (1949, April 16). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 11. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47812948

Week-end in the country. (1949, April 16). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 11. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47812948

Military-style hats were popular for winter 1950, including Light Horse plumes.  Cloche hats and berets were also popular.

NEW WINTER HAT STYLES. (1950, April 7). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 8. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72801141

NEW WINTER HAT STYLES. (1950, April 7). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 8. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72801141

Rockmans of Horsham offered bargains galore.

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Advertising. (1953, March 27). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 6. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72766479

Advertising. (1953, March 27). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 6. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72766479

Corduroy appeared for winter 1954 in the shape of dresses and tight jeans.   Paisley and leopard print corduroys were available.

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SUEDE COTTON IS EXCITING NEW TOP FASHION FABRIC. (1954, September 29). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 2. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74792605

SUEDE COTTON IS EXCITING NEW TOP FASHION FABRIC. (1954, September 29). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 2. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74792605

After all the furs earlier on, I was a little worried when I read about Poodle cloth coats from Rockmans, Canberra.  They also had a large range of cardigans.

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Advertising. (1958, March 13). The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), p. 19. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91245269

Advertising. (1958, March 13). The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 – 1995), p. 19. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91245269

By 1958, a range of wool slacks were available for winter. They were certainly more practical than the dresses female pioneers wore 100 years before.

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Advertising. (1958, May 1). The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 - 1995), p. 20. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91249114

Advertising. (1958, May 1). The Canberra Times (ACT : 1926 – 1995), p. 20. Retrieved May 31, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91249114

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