Autumn Fashion

The first two months of Autumn in the Western District produce some of the year’s best weather.  There are warm days but a chill is felt in the night air.  By May, however, we begin to get a taste of what lies ahead with more wet and cold days.

During the mid 19th century, ladies had to rely on reports from London and Paris for their fashion news.  In 1848,   the “London and Paris Ladies Magazine of Fashion” predicted coloured velvet trimmed for Autumn dresses.  Velvet was also popular for bonnets.

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FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER. (1848, February 1). Geelong Advertiser (Vic. : 1847 - 1851), p. 1 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91458993

FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER. (1848, February 1). Geelong Advertiser (Vic. : 1847 – 1851), p. 1 Edition: EVENING. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article91458993

Bonnets trimmed with fruit were out for Autumn 1851, but flowers such as forget-me-nots were fashionable.  Dresses with open or short sleeves were accessorised with bracelets, emeralds and “medal” charms the suggestion.

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FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER. (1850, December 26). The Cornwall Chronicle (Launceston, Tas. : 1835 - 1880), p. 943. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article65576052

FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER. (1850, December 26). The Cornwall Chronicle (Launceston, Tas. : 1835 – 1880), p. 943. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article65576052

The styles for Autumn 1853 changed little from the Spring before.

PARIS FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER. (1853, February 12). Colonial Times (Hobart, Tas. : 1828 - 1857), p. 3. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article8772971

PARIS FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER. (1853, February 12). Colonial Times (Hobart, Tas. : 1828 – 1857), p. 3. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article8772971

Sleeves were changing in shape during the mid-1850s.  Also, with the change of season, velvet was replacing ribbon on bonnets.

FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER. (1856, January 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 6. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article4827100

FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER. (1856, January 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 6. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article482710

 

A sample of Autumn fashion advertisements from the 1860s.

Advertising. (1866, March 15). Bendigo Advertiser (Vic. : 1855 - 1918), p. 2. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article87959303

Advertising. (1861, April 5). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 - 1876), p. 2 Edition: EVENINGS.. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article65446138

Advertising. (1861, April 5). Portland Guardian and Normanby General Advertiser (Vic. : 1842 – 1876), p. 2 Edition: EVENINGS.. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article65446138

Advertising. (1866, March 15). Bendigo Advertiser (Vic. : 1855 - 1918), p. 2. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article87959303

Advertising. (1866, March 15). Bendigo Advertiser (Vic. : 1855 – 1918), p. 2. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article87959303

Advertising. (1868, April 9). Bendigo Advertiser (Vic. : 1855 - 1918), p. 1. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article87895148

Advertising. (1868, April 9). Bendigo Advertiser (Vic. : 1855 – 1918), p. 1. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article87895148

L.Robinson & Co. of Collins Street, Melbourne had the latest imported Paris fashions for Autumn 1870.

Advertising. (1870, April 23). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 8. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article5818692

Advertising. (1870, April 23). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 8. Retrieved February 24, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article5818692

Miss S.H. Heazlewood kept the Portland ladies in the latest styles for Autumn 1884 and she offered a dressmaking service too.

Advertising. (1884, May 17). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), p. 3 Edition: MORNING. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article63342665

Advertising. (1884, May 17). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 – 1953), p. 3 Edition: MORNING. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article63342665

Not much has changed almost 130 years on.

Not Possible. (1886, April 23). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 2 Supplement: Supplement to the Colac Herald. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article90352809

Not Possible. (1886, April 23). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 2 Supplement: Supplement to the Colac Herald. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article90352809

In 1889, furs and cloaks were hitting the shops but outside the weather was anything but cold.

LADIES' COLUMN. (1889, March 1). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING, Supplement: SUPPLEMENT TO THE PORTLAND GUARDIAN. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article63592223

LADIES’ COLUMN. (1889, March 1). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 – 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING, Supplement: SUPPLEMENT TO THE PORTLAND GUARDIAN. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article63592223

Two weeks later,  the weather was a little more Autumn like.

LADIES' COLUMN. (1889, March 15). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING, Supplement: SUPPLEMENT TO THE PORTLAND GUARDIAN. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article63622402

LADIES’ COLUMN. (1889, March 15). Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 – 1953), p. 3 Edition: EVENING, Supplement: SUPPLEMENT TO THE PORTLAND GUARDIAN. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article63622402

A “pretty” apron from 1892 with a handy pocket and a cheap price tag.

FASHION'S FRIVOLITIES. (1892, February 26). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 2 Supplement: SUPPLEMENT TO The Horsham Times.. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72722663

FASHION’S FRIVOLITIES. (1892, February 26). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 2 Supplement: SUPPLEMENT TO The Horsham Times.. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72722663

Colourful straw hats were in vogue for Autumn 1904.

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ABOUT HATS. (1904, March 18). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 7. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article87354212

ABOUT HATS. (1904, March 18). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 7. Retrieved February 25, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article87354212

Jeanne Paquin was a French fashion designer known for her tailored gowns.  In 1905, her influence was evident in the fashions reaching Australian shores.

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WOMAN'S WORLD. (1905, March 24). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 1 Supplement: Supplement to the Horsham Times. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72815249

WOMAN’S WORLD. (1905, March 24). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 1 Supplement: Supplement to the Horsham Times. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72815249

The following dress from 1907, in a chiffon Panama material, gives us some idea of the sewing skills that have sadly been lost today.  Horsham ladies did not have to go to the city to buy such a dress.  They could order a Butterick  pattern from M. Thorp & Co of Melbourne.

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LADIES' COSTUME. (1907, April 12). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 1 Supplement: Supplement to the Horsham Times. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72939046

LADIES’ COSTUME. (1907, April 12). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 1 Supplement: Supplement to the Horsham Times. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72939046

Shades of purple were popular in 1913, especially for hats and veils.

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FOR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1913, March 26). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 4. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article93194629

FOR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1913, March 26). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 4. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article93194629

By 1914, Horsham ladies not handy with the needle were able to buy fashion equal to their city counterparts without leaving town.

AUTUMN MODES. (1914, March 17). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72900577

AUTUMN MODES. (1914, March 17). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 3. Retrieved February 26, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72900577

Those that suffered for fashion’s sake, would have pleased to see the back of the tight skirt.

OR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1914, April 1). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 3. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74224403

OR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1914, April 1). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 3. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74224403

FOR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1916, February 23). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 3. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75256133

FOR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1916, February 23). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 3. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75256133

Autumn hats for 1917 had few trimmings, although the white felt hat embroidered with Greek dancing-girls sounds far from plain.

FOR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1917, January 24). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 6. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74519149

FOR WIVES AND DAUGHTERS. (1917, January 24). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 6. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74519149

By the end of January 1917, autumn and winter clothing was appearing in the shops, the last thing shoppers wanted to see during a hot summer.  Coat frocks were in and the coatee was flattering for ladies of all shapes and sizes.

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WOMEN TO WOMEN. (1917, January 24). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 10. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1592469

WOMEN TO WOMEN. (1917, January 24). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 10. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1592469

WW1 limited the supply of precious stones for jewellery, with diamonds becoming rare and in turn expensive.  Charm bracelets and three stone engagement rings were popular and wedding rings had narrowed.  Earrings were rarely worn and when they were they were a simple stud. Colours were of subdued tones, fitting for the times.  Suits had few trimmings, relying on a smart cut for style.

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WAR-TIME JEWELLERY. (1917, April 4). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 - 1918), p. 5. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74520158

WAR-TIME JEWELLERY. (1917, April 4). The Colac Herald (Vic. : 1875 – 1918), p. 5. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74520158

Tyler’s of Bridge Street, Ballarat. advertised in the Border Watch of Mt. Gambier a fair distance to travel in 1922 for the latest autumn fashions.

Advertising. (1922, April 21). Border Watch (Mount Gambier, SA : 1861 - 1954), p. 4. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article77674135

Advertising. (1922, April 21). Border Watch (Mount Gambier, SA : 1861 – 1954), p. 4. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article77674135

Some distinctive 1920s styles.

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AUTUMN FASHIONS. (1923, March 21). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 6. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1884490

AUTUMN FASHIONS. (1923, March 21). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 6. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article1884490

There was plenty of colour on offer with the Autumn fashions of 1926, from rosewood to smoke greys and everything in between.  Imitation fur trimmings were popular on coats and handbags.

OUR WOMEN'S CORNER. (1926, March 23). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 2. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73002991

OUR WOMEN’S CORNER. (1926, March 23). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 2. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73002991

A Coolie coat from 1927.

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FASHION FORECASTS. (1928, April 3). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 10. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72625587

FASHION FORECASTS. (1928, April 3). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 10. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72625587

Styles from Autumn 1934.

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The Fashion Parade. (1934, February 17). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 23. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article46465428

Geoffrey Turton, aka Petrov, was an Australian magazine illustrator and cartoonist.  He worked on publications such as the Bulletin and Smiths Weekly, but also the Australian Women’s Weekly.  The following is an example of work from the Weekly, depicting Autumn styles from 1935.

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The Fashion Parade. (1935, January 26). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 8. Retrieved March 4, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47208042

There was plenty of choice for Autumn 1935, with ladies able to choose the look they preferred.aut46aut47

The Fashion Parade. (1935, January 26). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 8. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47208042

The Fashion Parade. (1935, January 26). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 8. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47208042

The Fashion Parade. (1936, February 22). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 8. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article46942701

The Fashion Parade. (1936, February 22). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 8. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article46942701

Friday 19 March 1937 was the date for the opening show of E.S. Finkemeyer’s Autumn and Winter fashions.

AUTUMN AND WINTER SHOW 1937. (1937, March 26). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 4. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73110816

AUTUMN AND WINTER SHOW 1937. (1937, March 26). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 4. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article73110816

Black worn with accessories in a new red, “rebel red”, was a fashionable look for 1940.

Treatment of Skirts Shows Variety. (1940, March 6). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 11. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article12429983

Treatment of Skirts Shows Variety. (1940, March 6). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 11. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article12429983

A promotion for Australian woollen garments during Autumn 1941.

Fashion triumph for AUSTRALIAN WOOLLENS. (1941, March 29). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 21 Section: Autumn Fashion Book. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47483414

Fashion triumph for AUSTRALIAN WOOLLENS. (1941, March 29). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 21 Section: Autumn Fashion Book. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47483414

A cardigan perfect for those cooler March evenings.

Advertising. (1941, April 26). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 5. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47484959

Advertising. (1941, April 26). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 5. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47484959

During WW2, when French and Italian fashion houses closed, America came to the forefront of fashion.

AMERICA LAUNCHES AUTUMN FASHIONS. (1944, November 28). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 8. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article11372401

AMERICA LAUNCHES AUTUMN FASHIONS. (1944, November 28). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 8. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article11372401

Sewing patterns from 1945.

Fashion PATTERNS. (1945, April 14). The Australian Women's Weekly (1933 - 1982), p. 21. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47118096

Fashion PATTERNS. (1945, April 14). The Australian Women’s Weekly (1933 – 1982), p. 21. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article47118096

The following two suits sure have that 1940s war-time look about them.

FASHIONS FOR THE AUTUMN. (1947, February 19). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 4 Supplement: Woman's Magazine. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article22409723

FASHIONS FOR THE AUTUMN. (1947, February 19). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 4 Supplement: Woman’s Magazine. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article22409723

This crêpe dress from 1950 was in contrast to the 1947 fashions, above.

No Title. (1950, April 25). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), p. 3. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72801557

No Title. (1950, April 25). The Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 – 1954), p. 3. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article72801557

In 1955, Tweed fashions for ladies emerged, not just tomboys, as did the jersey dress that washed like a stocking.

TWEED... is a Lady. (1955, February 22). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 4 Supplement: THE ARGUS SUPPLEMENT OF EXCLUSIVE MYER FASHION. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71634754

TWEED… is a Lady. (1955, February 22). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 4 Supplement: THE ARGUS SUPPLEMENT OF EXCLUSIVE MYER FASHION. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71634754

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The 3-T Gersey Frock. (1955, March 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 12. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71642613

The 3-T Gersey Frock. (1955, March 1). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 12. Retrieved February 28, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71642613

Max Factor cosmetics were 40 years old when this glamorous Myer advertisement appeared in the Australian Women’s Weekly.  Hollywood starlets such as Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor had made red lips sexy.

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Advertising. (1955, March 25). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1956), p. 21. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71641049

Advertising. (1955, March 25). The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 – 1956), p. 21. Retrieved February 27, 2013, from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article71641049

3 thoughts on “Autumn Fashion

  1. oh dear, now that the AWW is digitised at the NLA online it has become my black hole of frittering away time. the social pages have been good for genealogy too.

    Never mind Paquin, just relish the 1905 Horsham Times journalist SYLVIA’s lyrical description of a pelurine.

    You have probably read James Bonwicks accounts of the WD in 1860 and I recall he described the Cusack Russell parsonage of the Wannon Parish as ‘having the latest magazines from London’.

    HATS of course, having importance for showing off at church on Sunday.
    Thanks again for the fun MR

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    • Jersey is a descriptor of a type of knitted fabric. It can be knitted using a variety of different yarns and fibres – silk, cotton, wool, man-mades eg rayon & viscose from various bases, and synthetics, eg nylon, and acrylic (which usually went by trade-marked names, eg Orlon, Acrilan, and many others). Because the fabric was knitted, not woven, it behaved in a different way, and needed to be constructed differently, and often, cared-for differently too. Which is why, from the 1920s onwards, when it became increasingly available, it is specifically mentioned in descriptions of clothes. It signified a major difference in the design, look & feel of a garment from one which was constructed from a woven fabric, and was thus important to those in the fashion industry.

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